The traditional games of the Edo period were the foundation for the development of Japanese arts. Are you familiar with the games of the Edo period?Today, I would like to introduce a festival where you can still experience Edo period games.
The Edo no Hana Festival, held on January 18th, was organized to allow people of modern times to experience the games and traditions of the Edo period and to provide an opportunity to learn more about Japanese traditions.
In addition to booths for enjoying performances, there were also booths where visitors could experience Japanese culture firsthand. The festival takes place in Yoshiwara, just a 15-minute walk from Asakusa in Tokyo. The streets retain the atmosphere of the 1980s to 2000s, giving visitors a taste of old Tokyo.
Edo no Hana Festival History
At the Edo no Hana Festival, you can enjoy games and arts that were popular during the Edo period. The lifestyle of the common people in Edo was shaped by the peaceful era that followed the Sengoku period’s wars. As a result, culture, including games and arts, began to flourish. Many of the common people in Edo worked as day laborers, and activities like Kabuki theater, sumo wrestling, and the pleasure quarters required a lot of money. These were considered luxurious pastimes, primarily enjoyed by the samurai class and wealthy merchants, rather than by the general populace. However, there were some forms of entertainment that even the common people could enjoy. One of these was the “Yo-sei” (寄席). Today, we know this as “Rakugo” (a form of storytelling), but back then, it was called “Yo-sei,” which literally means “gathering place.”The origins of the Yo-sei date back to the time when storytellers would narrate tales, similar to “Kodan,” at shrines and temples.
While the practice existed before Edo, the end of the wars and the influx of people into Edo led to an increase in the number of performers. Eventually, they moved from shrine and temple grounds to dedicated venues known as “Yo-sei-koya,” or places specifically built for performances. In a Yo-sei, performances were not limited to Rakugo. In addition to storytelling, there were also ghost stories, magic tricks, shadow plays, and other types of entertainment.
Among these performances was the “Dai-Kagura” (大神楽).
What is the Dai-Kagura ?
Dai-Kagura originated as a sacred dance performed as an offering to the gods. Over time, it evolved from a religious ritual to a form of entertainment for festivals, and eventually, it became a regular form of amusement. Dai-Kagura gradually merged with a type of street performance known as “Karuwaza” (軽業), which involves acrobatics and other feats of skill. Performers used objects like umbrellas, balls, and teapots to entertain the crowd.
At the Edo no Hana Festival, you can experience Dai-Kagura up close. The performances combine the traditional sacred dance with acrobatic routines, and there are 13 different types of acts called “Dai-Kagura Juusanban” (太神楽十三番), though some are rarely performed today.
Dai-Kagura Juusanban
Let me introduce a few of the acts performed at the festival:One of them is the “Umbrella Act,” where a teacup and other objects are balanced on top of a traditional Japanese umbrella while it is spun. Another performance is the “Five-tiered Teacup Act,” where teacups are stacked and balanced with long poles.
Although not part of the “Dai-Kagura Juusanban,” a popular modern Dai-Kagura act, the “Teapot Act,” was also performed.
One more act is the “Flower Basket Marbles Act.” This curious object, called “Hanakago Mari,” is a bamboo tube with holes on either side and a stick protruding from the top. The act involves balancing and moving marbles on this strange-shaped object. It is a particularly difficult feat to perform and requires great skill to execute beautifully. The fascinating thing about the “Hanakago Mari” is that it is closely related to the history of the Yoshiwara Pleasure Quarters.
The shape of the “Hanakago Mari” represents the layout of the Yoshiwara district, and the red and white marbles symbolize the courtesans and their customers. The act of the marbles chasing and crossing each other is reminiscent of the men chasing after courtesans in the pleasure district, much like a scene from “Tom and Jerry.”
Yoshiwara prostitute
Yoshiwara was one of the three main centers of entertainment in Edo, known for its government-approved prostitution. The district was a bustling town in itself, with its main streets lined with vibrant establishments. In recent years, the Yoshiwara district has been featured in popular anime like Demon Slayer, highlighting its significant place in Edo’s culture and history. Yoshiwara was not just known as a red-light district but also as a popular tourist destination. In addition to festivals, the district hosted events such as cherry blossom viewing at night and the “Tamagiku Lantern Festival,” where each establishment displayed uniquely decorated lanterns. People flocked to these events regularly.
One of the most popular events in Yoshiwara was the “Niwaka” (俄), where the workers and geishas of Yoshiwara would perform impromptu plays and dances while parading through the streets. A notable feature of the Niwaka was the cross-dressing performance of female geishas. Female geishas would tie their hair in the traditional “mage” style, sing “Kiyari Ondo” (a work song originally used by Edo firefighters to coordinate their movements), and lead a parade with a lion dance. “Kiyari Ondo” was a work song sung by male firefighters during emergencies, and it was considered a special honor for women to be allowed to sing it in Yoshiwara, known as “Onna Kiyari” (woman’s Kiyari). This tradition has been preserved to this day.
Onna Kiyari
At the Edo no Hana Festival, you can also witness this performance of “Onna Kiyari.”Thus, Yoshiwara was not only the center of entertainment in Edo but also a hub for the development and dissemination of various cultures and arts.
A great merchant named Tsutaya Jūzaburō
Interestingly, there was one person who contributed significantly to the development of these cultural practices: Tsutaya Jūzaburō. Jūzaburō was a figure akin to a modern marketer and media mogul. He was born in the Yoshiwara district and started a bookstore in one corner of the district. He became famous for publishing a ranking of courtesans, which he sold to the visitors of Yoshiwara. His introduction of ranking systems and illustrations of the courtesans led to a surge in popularity.
His work became akin to modern review sites like Rotten Tomatoes or Metacritic, offering highly detailed and engaging content.
The illustrations in his books featured the rare color red, which was quite expensive at the time, and they were beautifully crafted. Jūzaburō’s success did not stop there. He went on to publish art books featuring various women and portraits, and these became popular as well. He continued to expand his reach, discovering new artists and writers, significantly contributing to the cultural development of Edo.
The bookstore he founded, “Kōshōdō,” was a central institution in Yoshiwara, and this year, it was revived to recreate the atmosphere of that time. Today, “Kōshōdō” operates as a tourist information center. At this center, you can see authentic geta (wooden sandals) worn by the courtesans of the time and purchase special souvenirs that reflect Edo’s culture. What do you think? The Edo no Hana Festival will likely take place again next January, so I hope you have the chance to visit!
Getting there and around
Hours
11:00 to 16:00
Fees
Free